Day 3 – Mammoth Springs, Norris Geyser Basin and Old Faithful
Entered the park today from the north entrance where the Roosevelt Gate is, the most majestic entrance, and headed south on the Grand Loop Road.
The name Mammoth Springs is a bit of a misnomer, it’s more like a series of cascading terraces with gold and yellow striations. We didn’t see many springs but loved walking through this most unusual (moonlike) landscape. Hard to believe that anything can grow in this calcified panorama, but there were trees and even wildflowers popping through.
Driving only a few miles south the landscape changed dramatically and we entered geyser country. Smoldering mounds dot the sides of the road. Spent several hours at the Norris Geyser Basin, taking a long loop hike to see gorgeous hot springs, Steamboat Geyser (when it erupts is the world’s tallest geyser but hasn’t popped since 2005), fumaroles, and gurgling pools. Again we are beyond impressed and totally amazed at these unique and bizarre natural occurrences not found virtually anywhere else. We kept wondering what the first Indians and white explorers thought when they first saw them – must have blown them away big-time.
One can’t explore the Park without noticing evidence of the 1988 wildfires that destroyed 1/3 of the place. Some areas have not come back at all while others are thriving. There are dead trees everywhere still. One good thing to come of these fires is that it changed fire management policies to be more in line with nature. We now recognize that fire suppression is not right, even harmful, and fires are let to burn themselves out unless historic buildings or people are in danger.
We are spending the night at the Old Faithful Inn, ground zero for the park and the most elegant of all the lodgings in the park (and very nearly destroyed in 1988). So far we hadn’t experienced the crowds we so feared, but when we pulled up at the hotel we were overwhelmed by tour buses, a very crowded and noisy lobby, and so much hub-bub you just wanted to leave. It was a madhouse.
Its easy to see why everyone congregates here – the lobby is stunning, an architectural wonder built in the early 1900’s. Built of wood from a couple of miles away and stone quarried from the Park, the lobby is 4 stories high of wood poles gracefully intertwined.
We have a terrific view of Old Faithful from our window but decide our first viewing must be outside right in front of it. It erupts about every 90 minutes these days, give or take 10 minutes. Its not as faithful as everyone thinks. But it is certainly popular. Hundreds lined up along a long boardwalk with benches awaiting the show which lasts about 5 minutes.
It was certainly cool to see but honestly not as impressive as everything we saw earlier at Norris Basin.A lovely dinner in the hotel dining room and a second eruption viewing from our window before sleep.
Day 4 – Geysers and Grizzlies
What a treat to wake up and watch Old Faithful blow right from our hotel room again. After breakfast we watched it one more time outside and walked around the area which has many smaller geysers.
I think geysers are like icebergs – you get excited when you see the first one, take a bunch of photos – but then you see another one that is more remarkable – and take even more photos of that one – and on and on.
While Old Faithful is great, to me it wasn’t the most impressive geyser we saw. We spent a long time in Biscuit Basin today which has many varied, colorful, and unpredictable geysers. You can see some of them from the road, an odd sight - tall steam plumes all around. The variety of color is due to minerals and organisms present (orange = sulfer, blue and green = algae for example).
I think geysers are like icebergs – you get excited when you see the first one, take a bunch of photos – but then you see another one that is more remarkable – and take even more photos of that one – and on and on.
While Old Faithful is great, to me it wasn’t the most impressive geyser we saw. We spent a long time in Biscuit Basin today which has many varied, colorful, and unpredictable geysers. You can see some of them from the road, an odd sight - tall steam plumes all around. The variety of color is due to minerals and organisms present (orange = sulfer, blue and green = algae for example).
Hiked from there up to a waterfall, through forest with visible remains of the 1988 fires. Saw an elk grazing in a pasture, ignoring us.
Along the road north of Old Faithful were several more stopping points with many more geysers, each one more interesting and different from the last. They are mesmerizing.
After 2-1/2 days in the park we decided to venture out for the late afternoon and evening. We drove out the west entrance of the Park to the town of West Yellowstone. It’s a buzzing little town, filled with everything tourists need in summer and winter (as this is the only entrance open all year).
We went to the non-profit Grizzly Discovery Center where rescued grizzlies and wolves are given a second chance. We figured this would be our only chance to see one as they are rather elusive in the wild, ditto for the wolves.
We also toured the Yellowstone Museum which is housed in the historic Union Pacific Railway station, the drop-off point for early visitors to the park. From there, they were taken by stagecoach in to the Park.West Yellowstone is a bustling place with many motels, restaurants, tackle shops, souvenir stores, and tourists. The Rough Guide recommended Bullwinkle’s for dinner (a stuffed moose proudly watches over the dining room) and I had delicious walleye, a fresh river fish from nearby Idaho.
It took almost two hours to get to our hotel which was only 61 miles away, but the speed limit in the park is 45 mph and it was raining quite hard for most of the journey (we did see a fox on the side of the road). We arrived late at the Lake Yellowstone Hotel, the oldest hotel in all our national park.
Day 5 – The Grand Canyon of Yellowstone River
Woke up in our room overlooking Lake Yellowstone to a glorious perfect weather day. We’ve been so fortunate with the weather; every time it has rained (3 thunderstorms) we’ve been in the car or in our hotel.
David spotted the grand piano in the lobby and serenaded the guests for half an hour. Several complimented him, one even took his photo, and a guy stopped us in the parking lot to say his music sounds like Keith Jarrett. Its not easy for David to be away from his piano for so long.
Our first destination was north to Tower Fall which is the far end of the Canyon, our plan being to work our way south with stops and hikes to experience different sections of the Canyon. There seemed to bison everywhere today, we even saw one in the parking lot at Tower Fall.
The Canyon area of the Park has lots of green meadows, lodgepole pine trees and the tallest peak in the Park, Mt. Washburn. We also drove over the highest spot in the park – 8900 feet – the highest either David or I had ever been in a car. Its easy to forget we’re at altitude – but once you start hiking or walking up a hill you are quickly reminded.
We made several stops along the north side of the Canyon and were blown away by its beauty. The pictures hardly capture the vividness and variation of the colors of the Canyon walls – Lower and Upper Falls are both impressive. Lower Falls is three times longer than Niagara. Of course its hard to capture the dimension and depth in a photo, but that didn't stop us from taking a bazillion.
We then went around to the south side in hopes of taking a hike down to the Canyon floor. Turns out the trail was obliterated during the winter through rock erosion and was closed. At the trailhead a park ranger was just starting a tour around the area so we joined. It was an excellent decision as we had the most informative hour learning from Ranger Dot and seeing some exquisite views of the falls and canyon.
Still wanting to hike, we walked along the rim of the canyon, seeing how precarious and fragile the canyon walls are. Even the trail was eroded in spots. Our destination was Artist Point, the lookout where Thomas Moran pointed the famous image of the Canyon.
Our last stop was Mud Volcano, a collection of mud holes and geysers different from the others we’d seen. Reeking of sulfur, these gurgling vats of mud are boiling hot and steamy.
Lovely dinner this evening in the grand dining hall (thanks Donna for the recommendation).
We leave tomorrow for Grand Teton, both of us feeling like we’ve really seen what Yellowstone has to offer, took in her grandeur, and were duly inspired.
David spotted the grand piano in the lobby and serenaded the guests for half an hour. Several complimented him, one even took his photo, and a guy stopped us in the parking lot to say his music sounds like Keith Jarrett. Its not easy for David to be away from his piano for so long.
Our first destination was north to Tower Fall which is the far end of the Canyon, our plan being to work our way south with stops and hikes to experience different sections of the Canyon. There seemed to bison everywhere today, we even saw one in the parking lot at Tower Fall.
The Canyon area of the Park has lots of green meadows, lodgepole pine trees and the tallest peak in the Park, Mt. Washburn. We also drove over the highest spot in the park – 8900 feet – the highest either David or I had ever been in a car. Its easy to forget we’re at altitude – but once you start hiking or walking up a hill you are quickly reminded.
We made several stops along the north side of the Canyon and were blown away by its beauty. The pictures hardly capture the vividness and variation of the colors of the Canyon walls – Lower and Upper Falls are both impressive. Lower Falls is three times longer than Niagara. Of course its hard to capture the dimension and depth in a photo, but that didn't stop us from taking a bazillion.
We then went around to the south side in hopes of taking a hike down to the Canyon floor. Turns out the trail was obliterated during the winter through rock erosion and was closed. At the trailhead a park ranger was just starting a tour around the area so we joined. It was an excellent decision as we had the most informative hour learning from Ranger Dot and seeing some exquisite views of the falls and canyon.
Still wanting to hike, we walked along the rim of the canyon, seeing how precarious and fragile the canyon walls are. Even the trail was eroded in spots. Our destination was Artist Point, the lookout where Thomas Moran pointed the famous image of the Canyon.
Our last stop was Mud Volcano, a collection of mud holes and geysers different from the others we’d seen. Reeking of sulfur, these gurgling vats of mud are boiling hot and steamy.
Lovely dinner this evening in the grand dining hall (thanks Donna for the recommendation).
We leave tomorrow for Grand Teton, both of us feeling like we’ve really seen what Yellowstone has to offer, took in her grandeur, and were duly inspired.
Day 6 – Grand Teton
Today was a memorable day because David earned his Junior Ranger designation! It took him about 2 hours to complete the coursework last night. This morning our first stop was the Visitor Center so that a park ranger could verify, test, and award him his patch. He’s very proud of it and I’m proud to be married to a Junior Ranger.
It’s not a long drive from the south entrance of Yellowstone where we exited to the north entrance of Grand Teton National Park. Connecting them is the John D. Rockefeller Jr. Memorial Highway, named for the man who bought up the ranches in the area and donated them to the U.S. government to create the Park in 1950.
At the Visitor Center in Grand Teton David decided to go for his second Junior Ranger designation and picked up his materials. We have a lot to do in the next day and a half.
Grand Teton is beautiful yet very different from Yellowstone. Scant wildfire damage, different foliage and trees, younger, spikier and more dramatic mountains, and different animals.
We check in to our lakefront room with gorgeous views of Jackson Lake and the mountain range, and sign up for a 5pm river raft trip. Feels like a nice change from all the walking and driving.
The Snake River is rather tame here and it’s a lovely and relaxing 2-1/2 hour, 10 mile meander down the river. We saw blue heron, merganser ducks, several bald eagles, Canadian geese, a red-tailed hawk, and sparrows that nest in the sides of the eroded canyons. We also saw much evidence of beavers during our raft trip – many gnawed trees they left behind.
On the drive back to the hotel we saw several herds of elk that are plentiful around here.
Our river guide gave us a tip as to where we might see moose, so we jumped in the car to drive down to Moose Road (not joking) before it got too dark - they like to eat around dusk. We were rewarded with a female moose in a little wetland area off the road, having dinner. It was just about dark and she was back from the road a way so the picture isn’t very good (but we took a bunch for you Linda! this is the best of the bunch).
It’s pretty easy to spot animals off the road – just look for the cars parked by the side of it. This reminds me of my African safari where one had to simply follow the herds of Range Rovers to find the herds of animals.
Driving back in the dark – of course there are no street lights – we had a near-miss with a deer that decided to cross the road right in front of us. We had already seen several herds of elk that IMHO are much mellower and slower than the deer.
We sat on our private little deck before bed watching the stars over the lake – so peaceful,serene and beautiful.
It’s not a long drive from the south entrance of Yellowstone where we exited to the north entrance of Grand Teton National Park. Connecting them is the John D. Rockefeller Jr. Memorial Highway, named for the man who bought up the ranches in the area and donated them to the U.S. government to create the Park in 1950.
At the Visitor Center in Grand Teton David decided to go for his second Junior Ranger designation and picked up his materials. We have a lot to do in the next day and a half.
Grand Teton is beautiful yet very different from Yellowstone. Scant wildfire damage, different foliage and trees, younger, spikier and more dramatic mountains, and different animals.
We check in to our lakefront room with gorgeous views of Jackson Lake and the mountain range, and sign up for a 5pm river raft trip. Feels like a nice change from all the walking and driving.
The Snake River is rather tame here and it’s a lovely and relaxing 2-1/2 hour, 10 mile meander down the river. We saw blue heron, merganser ducks, several bald eagles, Canadian geese, a red-tailed hawk, and sparrows that nest in the sides of the eroded canyons. We also saw much evidence of beavers during our raft trip – many gnawed trees they left behind.
On the drive back to the hotel we saw several herds of elk that are plentiful around here.
Our river guide gave us a tip as to where we might see moose, so we jumped in the car to drive down to Moose Road (not joking) before it got too dark - they like to eat around dusk. We were rewarded with a female moose in a little wetland area off the road, having dinner. It was just about dark and she was back from the road a way so the picture isn’t very good (but we took a bunch for you Linda! this is the best of the bunch).
It’s pretty easy to spot animals off the road – just look for the cars parked by the side of it. This reminds me of my African safari where one had to simply follow the herds of Range Rovers to find the herds of animals.
Driving back in the dark – of course there are no street lights – we had a near-miss with a deer that decided to cross the road right in front of us. We had already seen several herds of elk that IMHO are much mellower and slower than the deer.
We sat on our private little deck before bed watching the stars over the lake – so peaceful,serene and beautiful.
Day 7 – Grand Teton and Jackson Hole
Awoke to another magnificent perfect day with Jackson Lake glistening out our window. This Park isn’t very large, at least as compared to Yellowstone, we’d driven all the main roads yesterday to get a feel for the place.
Today we went to Jenny Lake and took a little shuttle boat across it to our trailhead. We hiked up in to a canyon between two of the Tetons, past lovely waterfalls and a place called “Inspiration Point”. Instead of taking the boat back we walked the path along the lakeshore, completing almost 7 miles today. It was quite a workout in the heat of the day and going up and down the canyon.
We had a picnic lunch at one of the many scenic turnouts conveniently placed along the road. Fantastic views abound.
One of the requirements to become a Junior Ranger is to attend at least one Ranger-led program. We chose an afternoon tour of Menors Ferry, one of the historic areas of the Park. Bill Menor was an early settler (there are a number of private landowners still in the Park grandfathered in from the Homestead Act). Menor ran a general store and ferry service across the Snake River, both recreated among other original buildings.
We couldn’t have been more impressed with the Ranger programs – and Rangers - in both Parks. They are so knowledgeable and consider themselves educators first. One of our tour books said the Ranger tours are the best bargain anywhere – they are all free.
Our next stop was the new and impressive Visitor Center at the southern entrance of the Park.
David received his second Junior Ranger designation – and this time got a badge as well as a patch!
We then drove to Jackson Hole to our lovely, modern, luxury hotel (with Internet, cell coverage and a jacuzzi tub!) – a treat after almost a week in the Parks. After dinner we took the gondola up Rendezvous Mountain in Teton Village for a spectacular view of the valley, Park, and surrounding area.
Then a short drive back to the Park for one last moose hunt. We were rewarded with a mama and her baby – in exactly the same spot as last night. We didn't know they favor wetlands for feeding. Sadly the light was poor and again she was far off the road so no good photos.
Days 8 & 9 - Heading Home
Today we went to Jenny Lake and took a little shuttle boat across it to our trailhead. We hiked up in to a canyon between two of the Tetons, past lovely waterfalls and a place called “Inspiration Point”. Instead of taking the boat back we walked the path along the lakeshore, completing almost 7 miles today. It was quite a workout in the heat of the day and going up and down the canyon.
We had a picnic lunch at one of the many scenic turnouts conveniently placed along the road. Fantastic views abound.
One of the requirements to become a Junior Ranger is to attend at least one Ranger-led program. We chose an afternoon tour of Menors Ferry, one of the historic areas of the Park. Bill Menor was an early settler (there are a number of private landowners still in the Park grandfathered in from the Homestead Act). Menor ran a general store and ferry service across the Snake River, both recreated among other original buildings.
We couldn’t have been more impressed with the Ranger programs – and Rangers - in both Parks. They are so knowledgeable and consider themselves educators first. One of our tour books said the Ranger tours are the best bargain anywhere – they are all free.Our next stop was the new and impressive Visitor Center at the southern entrance of the Park.
David received his second Junior Ranger designation – and this time got a badge as well as a patch!
We then drove to Jackson Hole to our lovely, modern, luxury hotel (with Internet, cell coverage and a jacuzzi tub!) – a treat after almost a week in the Parks. After dinner we took the gondola up Rendezvous Mountain in Teton Village for a spectacular view of the valley, Park, and surrounding area.
Then a short drive back to the Park for one last moose hunt. We were rewarded with a mama and her baby – in exactly the same spot as last night. We didn't know they favor wetlands for feeding. Sadly the light was poor and again she was far off the road so no good photos.
Days 8 & 9 - Heading Home
We took two days to drive home, breaking up the 13-hour journey. Leaving from Jackson, we went west and then north through Idaho which is nothing special - only boring freeway through farms. Thank goodness for 75 mph speed limits. Back in Montana, we were once again on I-90 heading west.
Stopped for dinner in Butte, an old cowboy town with a historic downtown left over from their mining days. Found the one gourmet restaurant in town - with the tagline "civilized dining in the wild, wild west".
We overnighted in Paradise - I couldn't resist! There happens to be a natural hot springs there and one funky hotel. We were literally in the middle of nowhere, but it was just beyond half way home and I thought the springs would feel good - they did.
The place has 5 pools - each one warmer than the previous and one cold plunge. People hang out in the pools, moving from one to the next. David delighted in going from the hottest one into the cold plunge and back several times to enjoy the tingles. We watched the sun set over the mountains relaxing in the medicinal powers of the mineral waters.
Sunday we completed the rest of our drive home, enjoying the journey through eastern Washington and slowly returning to civilization. It felt like we left everything behind for the week and were just part of the spectacular natural world while we were away. A perfect vacation.
We've got some great little videos (Old Faithful erupting, Dave getting his Jr. Ranger badge, etc. but Blogger is being fidgety and not letting me upload). In the interest of time, I'm not going to delay posting this.
No comments:
Post a Comment